Milan and Lecco

 This year EUNOS was held in Milan, Italy. Jen accompanied Scott to the conference and we spent a few bonus days in Lecco on Lake Como.

The travel was tiring on our overnight flight, so we we were so grateful to get an early check-in at the hotel. The first thing we did in Italy was nap.

The second thing we did was go grocery shopping. We needed to pick up some ingredients so we could cook our own meals on Sunday, and we love going to grocery stores in foreign countries. It is something that is so familiar but different. We bought pasta and vegetables and a rabbit mushroom sauce from Tuscany. 

Jen is picking out some pasta. This is the pasta aisle. Believe it or not, there is still another aisle for specialty pasta like whole grain or gluten free. 

You can by Nutella by the bucket.

We grabbed a bite to eat. We found a piadina shop. It is an Italian flat bread sandwich. We had such good food in Italy. (Of course!) We had pastas and pizzas and paninis...

My first attempt to order in Italian was quite a failure. But I got into the rhythm of it and started to communicate. Many places would also be able to handle English, but not everywhere.

That evening we went out to the Naviglio Grande (Canal District). We took the metro train there and wandered the neighborhood. We sat on the edge of the canal and talked for a long time. We got some gelato. (Scott got a scoop of Malaga and a scoop of Amarena- Malaga is a Spanish equivalent of rum raisin and Amarena is an Italian cherry. Jen got a scoop of chocolate with a scoop of mint-orange.) We noted that our conference hotel was on the Naviglio Pavese which connects with Naviglio Grande. So we just started walking back. 

We had a lovely walk, about 5 miles straight down the canal path. It gradually transitioned from urban to suburban to countryside.

The next day was a lot of time in the conference. I was surprised and pleased to see that one of my former residents and future VCU colleague was presenting at the meeting. During the meeting I learned about some new research going on and I also feel like it helped me consolidate some newish things that I am picking up. I also like to see how they do things in Europe. For example, in the United States, a temporal artery biopsy is considered gold standard for diagnosing GCA. In Europe they use ultrasound way more and American presenters would almost apologize for presenting cases with American style data.

That evening we went out for an opera at La Scala. We watched Nabucco by Verdi. I appreciated the historical significance of watching that opera in the very theater it first debuted in 1842.

Not bad for a couple traveling only with carryon luggage. (Jen did buy this new handbag while we were there.)

I thought Jen looked FAB-ulous walking the streets of Milano.

We got seats in the front row of the top balcony. The railings are padded and audience member literally lean in during the exciting parts. 

After the opera it was threating rain so we took the shortest walk possible to the metro which took us right through the Piazza del Duomo. The weather cooperated wonderfully. We just got a little shower as we headed into the hotel. It rained a couple of times during our trip but pretty much all the rains occurred during the nights. 

The cathedral at night

The next day was another conference day. But there was enough free time to make it to il Duomo before it closed. 

First we climbed the stairs up to the roof.

The Duomo Milano is an architectural wonder. Because the roof is accessible you can get much closer to see the stonework.

Then we descended into the Cathedral. It has a feel of a marble forest with large pillars and arched dome canopy and light filtering in through the stain glass. 

We also did an archeological tour in the cathedral. There are some steps that lead down to ancient sites underneath the plaza. This includes the Baptistry of San Giovanni where Ambrose baptized Augustine in 387. We found the ancient Christian history fascinating. 

Jen is standing in front of the octagonal baptismal font, which is located under the Piazza del Duomo. 

We got some street food near the Piazza; Panzerotti - little fried pockets filled with delish. 

The we wandered around the city a bit. 

Note that the Fiat is parked in a bike parking spot.

The next day the conference concluded and we headed straight out of town. We stayed in Lecco, which is on Lake Como, but on the less busy side of the lake.

However, that night there was a big crowd for a sky running competition. Racers would run from the lake all the way up Mt. Resegone and back. That is nearly a mile of elevation change. We joined the fun and cheered on the runners. One runner we saw inexplicable slow down near the finish line. He was looking for his wife, who handed over their little girl and he carried her across the finish line with him!

That night we went out to eat for a proper Italian dinner with all the courses. The food was so good, and not very much like what we eat in Italian restaurants in America. We had cod fish gratin for appetizer. For primo we had risotto with crispy peppers or fusilli with sausage ragout and pistachios. For secondo we had guinea fowl and goat meat salad or Milanese pork loin. We were stuffed.

The next day was a real delight.

We went walked to church in the morning. They provided English translation. I was able to listen to the vast majority of the meeting without any translation, but I still used it on occasion. We were there for a testimony meeting, which means anyone in the congregation can stand at the pulpit and share their own faith in Jesus Christ. One memorable moment was a tiny old lady who needed help to shuffle up to the front in her slippers and she stood on the stool for children. But she bore a powerful witness of Gesù Cristo and His Church. 

After church we caught a bus then rode a cable car up to Piana d'Erna. This is the beginning of the Italian Alps. We spent hours hiking this "family friendly" "nature trail". The definition of a "hike" is a whole other level in the Alps. The scenery was stunning. 

The cable cars

The spring water really was delicious and cool

The way back down

That night we went out and found this procession for the local celebration of Corpus Domini. We were impressed with how many people came out for the procession. 

While we were out walking, some Italian asked me about what was going on and I explained it was a procession. It is hilarious how often native people ask me for directions when I am traveling abroad. 

First there are the Carabinieri carrying torches and the priest and the cross bearer, then all the youth in their white robes, then under a canopy the head priest carries the Eucharist. He is flanked by sword bearing guards, then there is a brass band then all the people swarm behind. With loud speakers leading the songs and prayers.

On Monday we took a train up to Varenna and the ferry across the lake to Bellagio and then another ferry back to Lecco. The Villas with their gardens stole the show. 

This garage was just a cave hewn out of the rock. 

Basically everything was gorgeous or scenic or quaint